00:20
[Narrator] Qaanaaq is one
00:22
of the most northerly settlements on earth.
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And after months of darkness and Arctic storms,
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the ocean turns from ice to water almost
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just before our President tried to buy Greenland,
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and I was thinking about
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how far away that trip now seems,
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like a dream and how being frozen in place,
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I keep returning to Qaanaaq in my mind.
01:04
The hunters of Qaanaaq still hunting Narwhal,
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small whales with tusks by hand in kayaks with harpoons.
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It’s a way of life passed through millennia.
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Now I keep thinking of that moment
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when the Narwhal appeared as a flicker of light
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I watched it all from a cliff nearby.
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It seemed a little insane actually,
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the hugeness of the world,
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The Narwhal came as an offering
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Today, there might be 50 hunters left on earth
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who hunt whale like this.
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They share their meat,
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feeding the young and old.
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The narwhal’s skin called mucduc is an essential source
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of vitamin C and is eaten as communion,
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especially during celebrations.
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[people chattering]
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Greenlanders believe in communion
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with each other and nature.
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Arctic winter drives them into their own quarantine
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For nearly four months in Qaanaaq there’s no sun at all.
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Temperatures reach minus 20.
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Rituals become ever important.
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The making and sharing of food.
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The mending of clothes,
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the feeding of the dogs.
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It’s rare in American life
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to be as still as we’ve been and
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to now face a reckoning.
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Even as we begin to unfreeze ourselves,
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even in great upheaval
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I wonder what will surface,
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what lesson waits to be learned.
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Maybe it’s what the hunters of Qaanaaq already know.
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There’s still a way to be humble.
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There’s still a way to be open,
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to hold one another in mind,
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to un-divide ourselves.